A Weekend in Edinburgh

Edinburgh, Scotland's capital city, is a place where history and modernity blend seamlessly. With its medieval Old Town, elegant Georgian New Town, and imposing castle perched atop an extinct volcano, this UNESCO World Heritage Site packs an incredible amount of culture and beauty into a compact, walkable area. Whether you're drawn by the rich history, literary connections, vibrant festivals, or simply the warm Scottish hospitality, 48 hours in Edinburgh promises an unforgettable adventure.

Day 1: Edinburgh's Historic Heart

Morning: The Royal Mile and Edinburgh Castle

Begin your Edinburgh adventure at the heart of the Old Town on the Royal Mile, the historic thoroughfare that runs from Edinburgh Castle down to the Palace of Holyroodhouse.

8:30 AM - Breakfast at The Edinburgh Larder

Start your day with a hearty Scottish breakfast at this charming café just off the Royal Mile. Their locally sourced ingredients make for an exceptional meal – try the full Scottish breakfast complete with haggis for an authentic experience, or opt for their delicious homemade granola if you prefer something lighter.

9:30 AM - Edinburgh Castle

Head up to Edinburgh Castle, the city's most iconic landmark. Arrive early to beat the crowds and allow at least 2 hours to explore this historic fortress. Don't miss the Crown Jewels of Scotland (the Honours of Scotland), the Stone of Destiny, the Great Hall, and the panoramic views across the city from the castle walls.

If you time your visit right, you can witness the firing of the One O'Clock Gun, a tradition dating back to 1861 when it helped ships in the Firth of Forth set their maritime clocks.

Afternoon: Royal Mile Exploration

12:30 PM - Lunch at The Witchery

Treat yourself to lunch at this atmospheric restaurant near the castle. Housed in a 16th-century building, The Witchery offers a magical dining experience with Gothic décor and exceptional Scottish cuisine. Their fixed-price lunch menu provides excellent value for the quality of food and setting.

2:00 PM - Royal Mile Discoveries

Spend the afternoon exploring the Royal Mile's many attractions:

• Camera Obscura and World of Illusions - Five floors of optical illusions, puzzles, and hands-on exhibits, topped with the camera obscura itself offering 360° views of the city.
• St Giles' Cathedral - Step inside this 14th-century cathedral with its distinctive crown spire and beautiful stained glass windows.
• The Real Mary King's Close - Descend beneath the city streets to discover the preserved 17th-century alleyways where people once lived and worked.
• Museum of Edinburgh - Learn about the city's fascinating history in this free museum housed in 16th-century buildings.

As you wander, don't miss the many narrow closes (alleyways) that branch off the main street, each with its own character and stories.

Evening: Ghosts and Gastronomy

6:00 PM - Ghost Tour

Edinburgh is renowned for its dark history and ghostly tales. Join one of the evening ghost tours that depart from the Royal Mile to explore the city's spooky side. For the brave, Mercat Tours offers access to the Blair Street Underground Vaults, a series of chambers beneath the city streets with a particularly haunted reputation.

8:00 PM - Dinner at Howies

After your ghostly adventure, enjoy dinner at Howies on Victoria Street. This restaurant serves contemporary Scottish cuisine using seasonal ingredients. Their haggis, neeps, and tatties is excellent, as are their seafood dishes featuring the best of Scotland's coastal bounty.

10:00 PM - Whisky Tasting

End your first day with a visit to The Scotch Whisky Experience or one of the many traditional pubs on the Royal Mile. The Bow Bar and The Ensign Ewart both offer impressive selections of single malts that will help you discover the complex flavors of Scotland's national drink.

Day 2: Georgian Elegance and Cultural Treasures

Morning: New Town and Cultural Highlights

9:00 AM - Breakfast at Urban Angel

Start your second day with breakfast at this popular café on Hanover Street in the New Town. Their emphasis on organic, locally sourced ingredients results in delicious options like fluffy pancakes with Scottish berries or perfectly poached eggs with avocado on sourdough.

10:00 AM - New Town Walking Tour

Explore the elegant Georgian architecture of the New Town, a masterpiece of urban planning built between 1767 and 1850. Stroll down the wide boulevards of George Street and admire the perfectly proportioned townhouses around Charlotte Square and St. Andrew Square.

For shopping enthusiasts, Princes Street offers high-street brands with castle views, while George Street features more upscale boutiques. Don't miss the independent shops on Thistle Street and the charming village atmosphere of Stockbridge if you have time.

12:00 PM - National Gallery of Scotland

Visit the Scottish National Gallery on The Mound, which houses an impressive collection of fine art from the Renaissance to the post-impressionists. Highlights include works by Botticelli, Raphael, Titian, Rembrandt, Vermeer, Monet, and Van Gogh, alongside important Scottish artists such as Ramsay, Raeburn, and Wilkie.

Entrance to the permanent collection is free, making this a perfect cultural stop that won't stretch your budget.

Afternoon: Royal Botanic Garden and Calton Hill

1:30 PM - Lunch at Contini

Enjoy lunch at Contini on George Street, an elegant Italian restaurant in a former banking hall. Their menu celebrates both Italian and Scottish ingredients, with excellent pasta dishes and seasonal specials.

3:00 PM - Royal Botanic Garden

Take a short bus ride to the Royal Botanic Garden Edinburgh, a tranquil 70-acre oasis just one mile from the city center. Founded in 1670, these beautiful gardens feature a magnificent collection of plants from around the world, the Victorian Temperate Palm House, and stunning views back towards the city skyline.

The Rock Garden, Chinese Hillside, and Rhododendron Collection are particularly spectacular, while the Garden's 350-year history is brought to life through thoughtful interpretation.

5:00 PM - Calton Hill

As the afternoon draws to a close, head to Calton Hill for one of Edinburgh's most magnificent viewpoints. This UNESCO World Heritage Site is home to several iconic monuments, including the National Monument (often called "Edinburgh's Disgrace" or "Scotland's Folly" because it was never completed), Nelson's Monument, and the Dugald Stewart Monument.

This is one of the best spots in the city to watch the sunset, with panoramic views across Edinburgh, out to the Firth of Forth, and beyond to Fife.

Evening: Leith and Scottish Dining

7:00 PM - Dinner in Leith

For your final evening, head to the historic port district of Leith, which has transformed into one of Edinburgh's most exciting culinary destinations. The Shore area is lined with excellent restaurants, many featuring the outstanding seafood that Scotland is famous for.

For a special meal, book a table at The Kitchin, Tom Kitchin's Michelin-starred restaurant where "nature to plate" philosophy showcases the best of Scottish produce with French techniques. For something more casual but equally delicious, try Fishers, a local favorite serving superb seafood in a converted 17th-century watchtower.

9:30 PM - Evening Drinks

After dinner, enjoy the lively atmosphere at Teuchters Landing, a traditional pub with an excellent whisky selection, or The Roseleaf, known for its quirky décor and inventive cocktails served in teapots ("pot-tails").

If you're visiting between August and May, check if the Scottish Opera or Scottish Ballet are performing at the Edinburgh Festival Theatre or the Royal Lyceum Theatre for a cultural end to your trip.

Practical Information

Getting Around

Edinburgh is a very walkable city, with most major attractions within easy reach of each other on foot. For longer journeys or to save your legs on the hills, the city has an excellent bus network operated by Lothian Buses. Consider purchasing a day ticket for unlimited travel.

Trams run from the airport to the city center, with stops along Princes Street. For a scenic route to Leith, the Water of Leith Walkway offers a peaceful riverside path away from the traffic.

Where to Stay

For a 48-hour visit, location is key. Consider these areas:

• Old Town - Stay in the historic heart of Edinburgh, close to the Royal Mile and Edinburgh Castle. Options range from luxury hotels like The Witchery by the Castle to charming B&Bs and budget hostels.
• New Town - For elegant surroundings and excellent shopping, choose a Georgian townhouse hotel or serviced apartment in the New Town. The Kimpton Charlotte Square offers luxury with character.
• Grassmarket and West Port - This vibrant area offers castle views, plenty of dining options, and a central location. Stay at the charming Grassmarket Hotel for contemporary comfort in a historic setting.

When to Visit

Edinburgh is beautiful year-round, but each season offers a different experience:

• Summer (June-August) - Long days with up to 17 hours of daylight and generally mild weather. August brings the festival season, with thousands of performances across the city.
• Autumn (September-November) - Fewer crowds and beautiful colors in the city's parks and gardens. The light can be particularly atmospheric.
• Winter (December-February) - Shorter days but magical Christmas markets and Hogmanay (New Year) celebrations. Snow occasionally dusts the city, creating a magical atmosphere.
• Spring (March-May) - Gradually warming temperatures and blooming gardens. May can be particularly lovely with moderate crowds.

Final Thoughts

Edinburgh may be compact, but it's incredibly dense with history, culture, and beauty. This 48-hour itinerary offers a taste of what makes Scotland's capital so special – from its imposing castle and royal history to its literary connections, from its architectural elegance to its natural beauty, and from its traditional cuisine to its contemporary cultural scene.

The city rewards both careful planning and spontaneous wandering. Leave time in your itinerary to follow an intriguing close down from the Royal Mile, to linger over a pot of tea in a cozy café when the Scottish weather takes a turn, or to join locals in a traditional pub for impromptu folk music sessions.

While this weekend itinerary captures many of Edinburgh's highlights, it only scratches the surface of what the city has to offer. Many visitors find themselves returning again and again, discovering new layers to this enchanting capital with each visit.